Simon Wilkinson reviews Low & Slow

September 18, 2017 / Comments Off on Simon Wilkinson reviews Low & Slow

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FOOD and the culinary arts have played notable supporting roles in many movies — Babette’s Feast and Eat Drink Man Woman come immediately to mind. But it’s hard to imagine an entire film devoted to boiling, frying or any other type of cooking. The exception is Barbecue, the title and subject matter of a recently released doco celebrating the global attraction of cooking meat over fire. As its subjects explain, in a variety of languages, this is more than putting food on the table. It means community, family, bringing people together.

All of which comes to mind looking around Low & Slow, the rockin’ barbecue joint that’s been warmly embraced by the people of Port Adelaide.

Food at Low & Slow American BBQ, Port Adelaide. Photo: Matt Turner
It’s an early sitting and the room is full of children young and old. Dad is feeding shredded pork and “tater tots” to a tiny tot, happy as Larry in a highchair. Surly teens and their parents are finding common ground in a plate of sliders. My boys have silly, sticky smiles after cleaning up the ribs. It’s meat-induced magic. Or perhaps there’s something in the smoke.